How To Build A Wheelchair Ramp For Someone Who Needs One!

From left to right. Ron West, Bob Stukenberg, Bill Barry, Bill Greguska

I previously built wheelchair ramps for a ministry called “Faith Indeed.”

This is how I did it… If you have any questions, please get in touch with us.

So that you know, the client needs to be informed of their. options in building their ramp. For example, to place posts on the ground or underground. Explain the code situation and determine whether it is a temporary ramp for someone who knows they are moving soon, or a terminal health situation where they would not want 4-foot holes dug into their ground. We need to inform the customer so they can make their own decision. We build as the client wants, in accordance with safety regulations. I always explained that I needed a power source for our power tools. Also, to use the bathroom when someone is home. We can also include the ramp’s removal at their request once it is no longer needed.

Determining how large the ramp needs to be is relatively simple.

First, you need to measure the height of the steps from the door threshold from which the ramp is coming out. Let’s say there are 4 steps and the height is 28”. Then you must check whether the area where the ramp will land is a flat surface. If it is not, then you need to use a laser to see how many inches it slopes down. The amount of inches, let’s say 3” then needs to be added to the 28” which will give us the total inches of 31”. Now, for every inch in height, the length of the ramp (not including any decks) needs to be 31′ in length. The pitch needs to be 12:1 to ensure a safe, smooth ramp incline and decline. (One inch in height will need one foot in length of ramp ) Let’s say, instead of the above example of 31′, you built it at only 20′. That would result in an unsafe ramp because the incline would be challenging to climb, and in bad weather, it would be very slippery and prone to falls.

Overview of what the ramp is made of?

Outdoor ramps must be green-treated. Indoor ramps, on the other hand, do not need to be green-treated. We use Ponderosa pine lumber. The boards we use are 2” x 6” x (whatever length) for each custom ramp. The deck boards are typically 1 ¼” thick. We use 2” deck screws to fasten them. (Some special requests we can use green treated plywood) The deck boards are better at draining rainwater than plywood, which is less effective. We use 4 x 4 posts which we use 6” carriage bolts, washers and nuts to fasten together. On top of the posts we add post tops to make it look nice and to protect it from damage from rain from cracking. We also use two sets of 2”x 6” rails. (we can put on regular hand rails by the request of the customer as an extra feature). The ramp and deck joists are 2” x 6” material, with 2” x 6” supports going down approximately every 8′ to give extra strength. We also add a small coffee/plant holder at the angle between two rails. At the end of the ramp, we install an aluminum tread plate to ensure a smooth entrance and exit without a significant bump.

What does the client need to do?

Not much, except that the customer should be aware that the exit to their house we will be working on may be out of service for up to a few days, or longer, depending on circumstances and ramp size. Please keep your dog or cat away from us, unless you are sure they will not do us any harm. We do like animals, but to your dog or cat, we are strangers.

A few simple definitions of different parts of the wheelchair ramp.

• Deck= The flat area that is attached to the ramp to make the ramp change directions.
• Door threshold= usually does not need a transition plate, only if there is too big a bump to overcome.
• Rail= Made out of 2” x 6” lumber. Upon request, we can also add a regular wooden handrail with hardware.
• Ramp = is obviously the part that gets you into your house. A 12:1 pitch is fundamental.
• Stain: Do not stain your new ramp; wait 6 months/year to dry out the wood. Then you can have it stained.
• Tread plate= The piece that connects the ramp with the sidewalk or into the house for a smooth transition.
• Joist hangers, 3/8 inch bolts, washers, nuts, 3-inch deck screws, and blue cement screws will all be needed to assemble the ramp.

Deck

The deck is made up of 2” x 6” green treated lumber. They are screwed together with three 3” deck screws at each corner area. In the middle, there is a support 2” x 6” to give it more stability. Four 4” x 4” are bolted on with two 6” carriage bolts, washers, and nuts. The deck area is where we attach the coffee/flower shelf for convenience, stability, and aesthetics. Attached to the 4” x 4” posts, we attach 2” x 6” rails.

Ramp

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